Hi Nick - 

Its possible you should move to a stiff.  However, there are quite a few other factors to keep in mind.  Is your spin rate too high with your current set-up?  Are you inconsistent with your trajectory and shot shape?  If the answers to these are yes, I would think you might want to look at being fit for a stiffer shaft.  However, if you switch to a shaft that is too firm you may sacrifice some distance.

You should visit a local Titleist fitting day or fitting partner and have someone fit you for the proper shaft/flex.

thank you this helps alot my shot shaping has been inconsistant with hooks and slices so i think i should switch. Once again thank you very much

I am looking for the right shaft for my 910 D3.  I have an Aldila RIP 60g Stiff shaft.  My swing speed avg is about 112 and ball speed was in the 160's.  Carry about 260.  Spin Rate was in the 3200-3400 range.....need a shaft that will reduce the spin for more distance.  Any suggestions?  I hit the 'ahina 72 S and spin came down a little (3100).  Thanks for the help.

Brian K.

Give the Aldila RIP 60 X. or even the RIP 70 S. or X. a go. this shaft is quit good a reducing spin. there are a few others. But you will have to track down the tour van to try these or an advanced Titleist fitting facility. there is also some things that a good club smith can do to your current set-up that would reduce spin. I.E. tipping, changing shaft spine location?

Fitman

First of all, please do not look for your shaft on line based on someone's opinion.  Find a good fitter that :  1) fits outdoors, 2) uses a launch monitor, 3) Uses Pro V1 golf balls and 4) preferrably a good instructor. The ONLY way to get properly fitted!!

 Secondly, always remember this - the head of the golf club will affect the ball flight much more than the shaft.  As, always the kind of swing you make will trump everything else.  But before you go spend money on tipping a shaft I would suggest you strengthen the loft first. But you can only make these decisions utilizing the format i listed above.  DO NOT waste your money on spinning a shaft. I have asked the leading shaft engineers in the world about this and they ALL say it has no affect on ball flight.

Steve ball, PGA Master Professional
OKC,Ok

ballgolf.com

Dear Mr. Ball,

Even though spine alignment changes to a shaft may not be the answer to our friends problem buy its self. I challenge you to get yourself a shft spinning jig, they are not terrible expensive. Personally locate the spine in a driver shaft, lets go big for the first test. Mark your spine or hard spot and install that shaft in a head with the spine oriented in the 9 o'clock position at the golfers address position. Witch is straight parallel down range at target. This spine position is a hold of or fade position. The spine located in that position fights allowing the head to close at impact. 3 o'clock or straight behind parallel of target is the release or draw position. And 12 o'clock or straight away from golfer or 90 degrees right of target line is the neutral position. the later does not affect either direction and tends to create better ball striking because it affects the least amount of shaft droop at impact position. Starting with the shaft spine in the 9 o'clock position, you personally hit this club. Then pull shaft re-orient the shaft spine and hit this club in all three of these positions. then tell me it had know effect on ball flight. I have done exactly what I have prescribed for you, because I am a show-me kind of guy! And I was amazed at the difference there "IS" When the spine in a shaft is oriented in the proper direction. I also talked with a Mitsubishi Technician and was told that "One of the reasons there shafts are so expensive is that they spine align all there shafts to the correct position before silk screening logos".

Sinceraly,

Jeff Phister, AKA Fitman

Titleist Certified Fitter

Master Club Technician,

Ridge Creek Golf Club

Dinuba Ca.

If your considering doing a shaft swap i would recomend doing a fitting. and go to the fitting loose and ready to swing. If you aren't warmed up before a fitting you'll most likly get fit to a shaft that is softer. but i would say anything in the 90's would be good for a Stiff shaft. with todays shaft options im sure they can find the right shaft for you.

I am hitting a 10.5 degree 910D2 with a stiff shaft. I have it set as flat and at 9.75 degrees. I am hitting pull-hooks. I carry the ball about 260-270 yds. should I get an Xstiff ?

I hit a 8.5 degrees 910D2 set at D4 with a 72 gram stiff diamana shaft. i carry it about 260-270. I was thinking about going X flex too but i think ill wait until i can start carrying it 280-290 and have a swing speed of about 115 mph before i go X flex. my problem is my irons.

PW- 135-140 yards

9 iron- 150-155 yards

8 iron- 160-165 yards

7 iron- 170-175 yards

6 iron 180-185 yards

5 iron 190-195 yards

4 iron 200-205 yards

3 iron 210-215 yards

(yards are in carry distance)

I have titleist AP2 (2009 model) with project x 6.0 and they are extended 1 3/4 in. im about 6'2" or 6'3" and not done growing but i think ill be about 6'4" or 6"5". i was fitted when i got my irons in 2010 to fit me when im done growing but i think i want them shorter for more control. if i take off an inch when increase my swing speed, will they be too stiff? will i need to adjust the lie angle? will it mess up my distances? Should i even take off the inch? What else could it change in my game?

I'm 6'1" and wrist to floor height of 35.5" and I use standard length clubs but am 1* upright on the short irons and .5* upright on the long irons.  

Taking off an inch may stiffen the club slightly (may feel more like S+).   You will have to upright the lie angle by 1* if you shorten the club 1".    Also, 1" decreases the swingweight by 6 points so you would have to change from the standard rubber grip to a Winn Lite,  Winn Lite Dri Tac or the Golf Pride 25g grip to maintain the swingweight.   I would also be willing to bet that your swingweight now is probably 6 points heavy anyway.  Your distances COULD possibly change by 10 yards but a physically lighter and shorter club with the same swingweight as a longer club = faster swing speed.  Also, you may see higher ball flight with a steeper swing path.

Eddie,

That is the longest extension i have ever herd of anyone doing for irons? The swing weight on your irons has to be much heavy'er than they should be. Are you sure that the person who did this was an experienced fitter? You should probably find a Titleist certified Fitter and make sure that your iron shafts are the correct length for your dimensions, body type/setup geometry. And the swing weight is correct for you.This would be the first step in the right direction!

Fitman

My personal experience has been on the courses that I play, hills and mounds cause ball below my feet stances. The irons I use if the rough is grown and the ball hangs up are 1 inch over length, no adjustment of the swingweight. On level lies, I grip down 1 inch for a standard shot, ball above feet, I grip down to point that the club lays even to the lie. The shaft will play just a tad softer at the 1 inch grip down point, softer still if gripped at the buttt end, and head heavy. But I can strike the ball better from the ball below my feet, as I employ a slower - smoother swing. This is possible for me as I keep my clubs when I purchase new ones. I have a range of lofts, lies, bounce and shafts to fit the course and conditions. One of my 64 degee wedges is a 200 raw 60*04 bent 4 degrees weak, hand ground to soften the trailing edge, and the leading edge "blunted" . It is my best short game wedge in tight, dry conditions, and I had it years before Vokey offered a 64, currently with some funky sole that I would have to learn how to use.

Now that I have demonstrated some fitting skills, I agree with fitman, go to a Certified PGA Pro who has a launch monitor to take to the range or already is installed as part pof the range. (S)he will best be able to fit you to clubs that will perform for you.

'Nuff said.

Partner

Eddie,

That is the longest extension i have ever herd of anyone doing for irons? The swing weight on your irons has to be much heavy'er than they should be. Are you sure that the person who did this was an experienced fitter? You should probably find a Titleist certified Fitter and make sure that your iron shafts are the correct length for your dimensions, body type/setup geometry. And the swing weight is correct for you.This would be the first step in the right direction!

Fitman

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I agree with the Fitman.  Even on the chart from another manufacturer, someone 6'4" has a shaft length of +1/2"    The shaft length is based more on wrist to floor height.   A degree upright by Titleist standards is Yellow Dot on the other chart.

The person who fit me is a great teaching professional and a good fitter. i don't think he knew how to really make them since im not done growing. But i do like the weight of my clubs. if i do make them shorter and the weight of changes cant i put lead tape on the club head to make it heavier? What about the grips? will the shaft be too narrow to put a normal grip on it? And what do you mean Lou by the 6 points and the lite grip?

A standard rubber grip weighs 52 grams.   A Winn Lite Dri Tac standard is 23 grams.  Changing the weight of the grip affects the swingweight and a lighter grip increases swingweight (because the balance is more toward the head).  For each 5 grams you change the grip weight, you affect swingweight by 1 point.  

For each 1/2" you shorten or lengthen the club (with the same head) you change swingweight by 3 points.  

So if you cut the shaft 1", you lighten the swingweight by 6 points.  To bring the swingweight back up, you change from a 52 gram grip to a 23 gram grip.

If you happen to be blessed with large hands, oversize grips are generally around 67-70 grams.   An oversize Winn Lite Dri Tac is 26 grams.  That is a difference of 8 swingweight points.   An oversize Winn Excel RF is 46 grams so even that is 4 swingweight points different from an oversize rubber grip (I went from a Winn Excel RF to a Golf Pride Tour Wrap midsize on a steel shafted persimmon wood because the swingweight was D9 with the former; it came it at D5).

Not too many people know about the effect of the grip.  They primarily know that 2 grams change in head weight = 1 swing weight point.

Eddie D.

Your grips will fit fine and there is no need to go to a lighter grip unless that is what you prefer. The overall length of the club has the biggest affect on felt swing weight. Have your fitter check current swing weight and tell you how much difference there will be when he cuts them to the length he recommends. Then discuss it with him and trust his recommendation.

Fitman

The grips also affect the feel too.  For steel shafted clubs, the way to go is Lamkin Crossline or Golf Pride Tour Wrap or Tour Velvet; the feel is a bit harsh with Excel RF or Winn Lite.   I do fine with Winn Lite Dri Tac on TM fairways and hybrids (they are about an inch long to begin with and have pretty light shafts).    For Titleist fairways and hybrids Winn Excel is OK (I play them 1/2" shorter than standard - that is what I had on my 975D and 983K drivers, and what I have on my 910F and 910H clubs).  I use midsize grips on the woods and hybrids to lessen the hand action a bit (I used to tend to hook before).

I don't think the grips will make a huge difference and i do have big hands lou! but i did talk to the guy who fit me and he says i can look at all the charts they have and what not but he likes the length of them on me and then he said i shouldn't mess with them because it will make the shaft too stiff and i'd have trouble hitting them. maybe i should go talk to someone else who fits clubs just to get their opinion