Hi Thomas -

I don't want to shoot down your thought process here but there are limitations on what we can/will build through custom due to component availability and what we consider building a "playable" set of irons.  We will make exceptions in some cases but we do maintain a stance that by building clubs outside of our recommended limitations we will not guarantee swingweight and the related "performance" of the club.

I would agree that the progression of lofts and lengths (at .25") could make sense for your game.  However, the D0 swingweight request and the lengths posted above cause impossibilities.  For example, the 3 iron at -1.25" would be C5 at best (you might find 2 more points with the GP Decade Multi compound grip). 

In short, your loft requests seem to make sense and we can get close to D0 but not guarantee the whole set at D0 with these specs.  Your lie angle would need to be fit based on the individual lengths you choose because the progression will not be consistent (from STD) in the sense that your 7 iron is -.25" and your 9 iron is +.25".  Typically, fitters will determine proper length and then appropriate lie angle.  In this case you are building a set based on length and then trying to find the appropriate lie for each iron. 

I will be interested to see what other fitters think of your question.  Titleist will do their best to build a playable set of irons based on any request. 

....Also there is a fitter at the Faldo Golf Institute in Orlando Florida that might offer some great insight into this question.  If you have the opportunity to work with him it might be a good match.  His name is Randall, 888-463-2536

Do you currently play -1/2"?

If the long irons are the issue, than fix the long irons.  I would stick with the standard progression through the 5 iron. This makes the 4 iron 38.25" and 3 iron 38.5". Adjust the loft accordingly.

I have tested a short and light set with beginners, juniors and high handicappers.  I feel you can achieve very good results in training, but not necessarily for long term use.  The clubs being shorter improves ball contact and the lighter weight improves speed training.

Glad to see you are thinking outside the box.

Thanks,

Joe Burdess

KPC at The Glen Club

Titleist Regional Fitter

Thank you very much for your reply, Joe!

Currently, according to Titleist standards you could say, that I play -0,25". (My 6-iron is 37,25" - standard 0,5" shaft length progression throughout the set). I must say, that I like your idea of shortening the 3-iron and 4-iron only. Let us assume, that lie angles will be adjusted adequatelly and we are focusing only on lenghts and lofts. What do you think about the following configuration?

3i     38,25"     19°
4i     38,00"     23°
5i     37,75"     27°
6i     37,25"     31°
7i     36,75"     35°
8i     36,50"     39°
9i     36,25"     43°
PW     36,00"     47°

Hi Joe,

I hope you don't mind, if I send you another possible configuration. I'm just so excited, that finally somebody understands my thoughts is creative enough and isn't limited to conventional stuff. Basically this configuration is, what you have said already:

3i     38,25"     19°
4i     38,00"     22°
5i     37,75"     26°
6i     37,25"     30°
7i     36,75"     34°
8i     36,25"     38°
9i     35,75"     42°
PW     35,50"     46°

alternatively I am thinking about starting the "shortening" at the 5-iron already:

3i     38,00"     18°
4i     37,75"     22°
5i     37,50"     26°
6i     37,25"     30°
7i     36,75"     34°
8i     36,25"     38°
9i     35,75"     42°
PW     35,50"     46°

Which one do you like more? Do you think there could be problems with the 38,0" 3-iron regarding swingweight?

Thanks in advance

Thomas

Its not the length of the shaft that makes you stand too erect, it is length of shaft + lie angle.

Take a look at what you have figured out, your 4i is the length of a standard 6i just .5* flatter. Your 6i is the length of 7i just .5* flatter, your 8i is the same length as a standard 8i just .5* flatter.

You really should be just fine going with a set .5* flat standard length, or .5 inch short standard lie. At the most .5* flat and .5 inch short.

Before I spent the big $$$ on a new custom made set, I would make sure what I was ordering was correct.

I would suggest you experiment with your current clubs, start by just adjusting the lie angle, then cut the shafts and readjust the lie angles. Once you find what works, then order some new clubs.

Thank you very much for your reply, John!

So basically what you are saying is, that the "more upright" lie angle makes me stand (or having the feeling of standing) to erect? That would make sense. Currently I have a lie angle of 62° on my 6-iron and when I hit it pure, my divot is perfectly centered. I want to avoid flatter lie angles, because they make me swing on a flatter backswing plane, which is a crucial error for me. I think it's a trade-off between the backswing plane and the "standing erect" feeling. In other words, I definitely swing better with a steeper backswing and the "standing erect" feeling, than with a flatter backswing plane and no "standing erect" feeling. What do you think about the 2nd configuration I posted?