AGREED.

So who says you can't put a triple X flex shaft on an AP1?  For that matter, A flex or L flex on a CB.

There are single digit players that use senior flex (they just have vicious short games and are super consistent).  I played golf with one a few years back.  I use senior flex on my driver and 5 wood (I also play -1/2").  My hybrids and irons are regular and wedges are S200.  I play to a 12.

Just go do a custom fitting and ask your pro for a combo set :)

agreed!

Hi Mikey-
Just so you know, Titleist irons may be custom ordered across the models so that you get the set that is right for your game.  For example, if you wanted to order a set of 3-5 AP1 or AP2, 6-7 CB, and 8-P MB, we can do that.  As always, best to work with one of our fitters to determine the correct models and specifications.  Let us know if you have other questions.

Good golfing,

Brice

I am currently using an AP2 set with 5.5 project x rifle shafts. My game ranges from 83 to 99. Now should I go to the AP1's? reason being my PW only goes about 90 yards.

Isn't 5.5 stiff?  If you are hitting a pitching wedge only 90 yards with these shafts, you should be using DG R300 or Project X 4.5.   You are losing a good 5-10 yards because the shafts are too stiff.  I hit an AP1 PW 105 yards and a DCI 981 PW 100 yards and I use R300. 

I wouldnt switch irons simply because of yardage. Thats just me.

Hi Jay, I just received my AP2 with DGS200 and they were the replacement for my previous set of X-Forged with NSPro950GH. At first I brought down to the course and I lost like 10-15 meters, so I called the fitter from Titleist who did my fitting. Technically an increase of 30 grams in the shaft alone is psychologically affecting my game and the loss of distance made it worse.

So I scheduled another session with him and he took another look at my "current" swing with the 7 iron (which I'm most comfortable with). After taking a swing of approx 10 balls, he explained to me why I have lost that distance and apparently it was my swing and not pivoting my wrist that made the HUGE difference. After that I went to hit a couple more balls and it's back. I no longer feel that my current set is heavier than my previous set, but the feel and balance is much more better.

My point is this, when amateur like myself starts to get technical, it can mislead and begin the countdown of self destruct. My advice to you is to see a certified Titleist fitter and let him take a look at your swing style etc. The best thing I like about the fitting session with Titleist is the fact that they bring so many different shafts (NSPro, DGS, PX, KBS etc) that I have a chance to try and determine which one I feel comfortable with (and of course with the advice of the fitter ^_^ )

Don't get to technical in terms of the equipment and don't be shy to ask and exchange opinions with others regardless of your handicap.

FYI, I'm an 18 hdcp and just came back to golf for 3 months (after my "accident") and I feel like my current set is made for me.

Thank you Brendan Green (Titleist Australia) and best of luck to you Jay. I really hope you can improve your game with the AP2.

Cheers!!!

Like I mentioned in your other thread, you should be using Project X 4.5 or DG R300.   I also use AP1s and expect about a 5 yard gain over the AP2s due to a 2* difference in loft (I used to hit a DCI 981 or any other 47* PW 100 yards).

Mikey Z, Have a look at the 735cm irons they follow your combo to the tee! They are older and a bit hard to find in good shape but awesome irons non the less. Also as all the reps have said its possible for Titleist to set you up with any combo you want. i.e. P-8 MB, 7-6 CB, 5-3 AP2. Then you get to be the architect / engineer behind your iron set.

A buddy of mine just ordered a mixed set.  Kept his CB's 8-pw, ordered new 5,6,7 AP1's and 3 new 910 H hybrids. 

He doesn't play often enough anymore so he wanted something more forgiving for the longer clubs.

What would be more practical change the shafts on my AP2's or sell them maybe and buy a set of AP1's? On my driver, 3 and 5 wood I use a stiff shaft and seem to hit them the averacge distance. Why is that?

Typical labor for reshafting is $17 per club.

Cost of the shaft would $15 per for Dynamic Gold R300. 

Grips are about $5 each for the standard Lamkin Crossline or Golf Pride Tour Velvet.

Ferrules are about $5 per dozen.

Assuming you have the repair person do the reshaft - that would be $37 per club.  The cost of the AP1s new is $1000 and the resale value of AP2 712 is $655 as per pga.com (the trade in value is $375).  

If you choose the DIY route - need to buy a propane torch, epoxy, tubing cutter, grip solvent, a reaming brush (to clean the hosel of any epoxy) and grip tape - probably about $50 total.

As far as the stiff shafts - you probably carry shorter vs a regular shaft but roll more.

The MSRP (manufacture suggested retail price) for a reshaft to a standard steel shaft such as DYG or DYG XP or NS pro 105T would be $50 per club, and we would recommend checking with your local pro shop for pricing as it may be different than MSRP..

The MSRP (manufacture suggested retail price) for a reshaft to a standard steel shaft such as DYG or DYG XP or NS pro 105T would be $50 per club, and we would recommend checking with your local pro shop for pricing as it may be different than MSRP..

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That was pretty close to what the local shops would charge - the going rate is $17 per club for labor and Golfsmith's list price for DG R300 is $14.99 per shaft.  Lamkin and Golf Pride grips are approx $4.25 each.  The Golf Galaxy price for a Titleist Tour Velvet grip is $5.99.  

What are the lightest regular flex steel shafts available? Can I save the grips? Is reshafting worth it performance wise? I got fitted and they said my clubs need to be 1* upright is that worth all the fuzz or should I just adjust the way I swing?

Thanks,

Jay

They have shafts as low as 95g.   AWT Steel or Apollo 95 come to mind and I believe that TT has a couple 95 gram shafts.  There is about a 3 swingweight point difference between a 95g shaft and 125g.  

Grips - It would be nice to salvage but generally they don't.   Also, if you are going with an ultralight shaft, consider a lighter grip to maintain swing weight.   The standard rubber grip is 52 grams. Winn Excel RF standard is 42 (increases swingweight by 2 points).   Winn Lite Dri Tac is 23 grams (increases swingweight by 6 points - this is for people who have to use short shafts).    Important for me because I use midsize grips on my longer clubs and the rubber grip is 67 grams (kills swingweight by 3 points). 

You should adjust the clubs to the way you swing and not vice versa.  I have my irons 1* upright but -1/4" length.   All my wedges are +1* and standard length.  My driver is 44.5" with a lie angle of 58*.   5W set at D3 with a shaft length of 41.5" (lie angle 59.5*).   Too flat of a lie angle leads to a lot of problems, the least of which is back pain after extended practice.  You also can lose your balance after awhile (and that is what leads to shanking).  When you compensate for a flat lie angle by using a flatter swing, it leads to screaming hooks (especially if the lie angle is over 1* flat). 

I had been playing standard lie clubs since 1972.  When I took up golf again in 2006, I found the shaft lengths too long with graphite shafted woods and hybrids, along with hitting a pull or snap hook.  I also would get back pain after an extended session at the range.  I got a tip about standing more upright in 2008 and that helped with the woods and hybrids - started hitting them straight; however, I started having problems with short irons.  I then got into clubmaking (constructed a set of irons in 2009) and found my lie angles were 1* more upright than standard (I played with the do it yourself irons through mid 2011 and did reasonably well with them).   I also remembered that my height was 6'1" during an insurance physical in 2005 (I had been 5'11 3/4" since high school).   I've been playing to a 12 handicap since 2009 with such a simple thing as proper clubfitting (this was despite a so-so middle game). 

I have never been fitted for clubs. I just like Titleist since my family use Titleist clubs, my dad is 77 and my uncle is 85. I like this AP2's I used to own a 910 D2 driver until I found it to be about 46" long. So I sold it and bought a TM R9 TP which was 45" long and I can hit it without the slice but now it usually draws. My irons I usually hit a slice unless I adjust my hands for a flatter lie (hand closer to the body and spine angle lower).

Here is what is currently in my bag:

TM R9 TP, 10.5*, Standard Length, Stiff flex Fubuki shaft

TM R9, 3 wood, stiff flex Fujikura, standard length

TM R9, 5 wood, Stiff flex Fujikura, standard length

4-PW Titleist AP2, 5.5 Project x, standard length and lie

52* Titleist TVD design wedge

56* Titleist TVD design wedge

60* Titleist TVD design wedge

LH Scotty Camerom Newport 2 putter, 45" long (I think it is still to short after a few putts my back hurts but I do not want to change the swing weight)

I am waiting for the 913 driver to come out.

$5 per club to have lie angle adjusted on the irons and wedges.   Too flat = slice with normal stance.  If you have a low stance with a lot of knee flex to compensate for a flat lie, you get more distance on a pulled shot.    You shouldn't change your swing to fit the club- the club should fit your swing.   My 6 and 7 irons are 1/2* upright and the 8 iron thru wedges are 1* upright; I hit the ball dead straight.   Being properly fit has dropped my golf score from mid 90s to mid 80s.

$20 for a putter fitting and well worth it.  I'm 6'1" and my putter is 35" with 2* upright.  I save 2-3 strokes per round on putting.

Your hands are supposed to hang straight down or maybe slightly forward (more so for woods). 

The reason you were slicing the 46" driver because you probably were hitting closer to the heel (it is a push-slice).   Titleist standard driver length is 45".  TM is 45 3/4" (I cut my Burner down to 44.5" and used a Dri Tac light grip to restore swingweight).

We do carry a NS pro 850 which weighs 87 grams in a reg and 91 in a stiff, the NS pro 950 which weighs 95 in a reg and 98 in a stiff.

Will a shaft with this specs fit my AP2's I found them on ebay

Highlights:

• UNCUT    RIFLE PROJECT X 5.0 3-PW Steel Iron Shafts

• Condition:    Like-New.  Might have occasional minor scratches.

• Flex:    Regular 5.0

• UNCUT    Lengths: 37", 37.5", 38", 38.5", 39", 39.5", 40",    40.5"

• Tip    Size: 0.355 Taper Tip

Pal, use other irons, but get Vokey customized wedges, and everything else Titleist.  That's what I do and I may say without fear of contradiction, I have a perfect set of clubs.

My bag is mixed (Burner HT Draw driver, 910F 19* fww, Superfast 2.0 27H, Louisville HL3 34* persimmon hybrid, AP1 8-PW, Vokey SM c-c 50-08 and 54-14, SM4 60-10 and White Hot 7H putter).  It is all dialed in and streamlined.  I hit the 34H just as far as a 6 iron and can hit 7 iron distance by choking down slightly and I have been carrying it in my bag for 2 years.   I have the AP1 6 and 7 iron available but am spoiled with the 34H.  I may consider a 910D 12* driver and a 910H 24* hybrid next year at tax time.