Adjusting the adaptor on the driver

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By SJacobs

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  • 11 Replies
  1. SJacobs

    SJacobs

    I'm 55, 4 hcp. Everything in my bag is Titleist except for a TM Sim driver. I was going to wait for the next series of Drivers to come out from Titleist, but the Sim adaptor broke and I didn't want to spend $125 on a 5 year old driver. I went to 2nd Swing with a fitter I trust, I hit all brands, and ended up purchasing a new TSR2, Tensie Black Extra Stiff shaft. During the end of the fitting, we were adjusting the adaptor between B2 and A1, with the B2 providing slightly better results.

    My data with my TM Sim was solid per Arccos: 283 yard average, balanced misses left and right. My shot shape was slightly right to left due to a slightly in to out club path.

    I started my practice and playing with the TSR2 in the B2 setting and was struggling with hooks, some of the duck variety. Low ball flight and moving hard left. After a couple of weeks and that getting better but still being the miss, I moved to the A1 setting. Results were definitely better, but still a few more left than right. Now I am contemplating going to the B1 setting.

    My question for the group: Are these changes (from B2 to A1 to B1) minor? Are these small tweaks that really aren't very noticeable and maybe I overreacting to the modifications? Or is this a fairly major change and maybe since I am moving further than my original fitting, I should go back to confirm my fitting, where I have a 30 day return policy?

  2. Dale V

    Dale V
    Surprise AZ

    I find that when I adjust mine, it seems to make minor differences compared to when I switch out shafts. I have an older Aldila Tour Green that I can easily draw the ball but the Tensei Blue I use I hit straight or slight fade on all the surfeit settings. Your extra stuff should not be hooking unless it is lighter than your previous shaft and causing you to flip your hands a bit at impact. Maybe try thicker grip or heavier shaft and see what happens. Hope you get it worked out.
  3. Barry M

    Barry M
    Reno, NV

    The settings are only minor adjustments. I'm no expert, and I'm reminded of that every day, but it sounds to me like you got a new driver and you're over-swinging to get a little more out of it.
    When I got my new TSR2 my first couple of rounds were not indicative of what I was swinging when fit. I determined I was putting too much trust in the new club and neglecting my mechanics. Settled down and it all came back.
  4. Brock L

    Brock L
    Fort Myers, FL

    If your miss is low left, my concern would be the shaft. Tensei Black 1K is low launch, low spin... and plays almost a full flex stiffer than most other shafts. I wouldn't recommend it except for very strong players with a lot of speed and spin.
  5. Andrew A

    Andrew A
    Charlotte, NC

    There is a whole guide/matrix that you can view online. For example, the B2 setting, will make the club more upright by .75 degrees from the standard lie and loft of the A1 setting. Going from A1 to B1 will open the face by 0.5 degrees.




  6. Peter G

    Peter G

    Military
    I too am 55 and switched from the SIM2 to the TSR3…I’m a 10 hcp and have a membership at my local PGA Tour Superstore which allows me one hour every day in the sim…so, I will often run tests…I just recently did a test using a bunch of the settings…I didn’t do them all…but I was shocked at how much of a difference there is between them. The booklet indicates what the difference is from one setting to the other, but you don’t really get a sense until you try them. And, sort of in line with what you mentioned, I would test a setting, e.g. B1, then go back to my normal setting, then switch it to test another, rinse and repeat…I think there are some vidz on someone doing the ball testing. I’ll see if I can pull up the data I found…granted, my driver swing is absolute garbage right now, as evidenced by my Arccos handicap…I’ve had both hips replaced and shoulder surgery, so the big swing isn’t exactly in a good place at the moment…
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  7. David W

    David W
    Pittsburgh, PA

    Military
    Those are minor changes, only changing the direction of the ball. With those settings you are not changing the loft of the club. A-1 is the standard setting favoring a straight ball. B-2 is for a slight Draw and A-2 more Draw. B-1 is for Fade. Hope this helps you out. Search online for TSR setting it will show you the chart for Driver/Fairway and also a chart for Hybrids. Make sure you look at the Driver/Fairway chart.
  8. David W

    David W
    Pittsburgh, PA

    Military

    David W said:

    Those are minor changes, only changing the direction of the ball. With those settings you are not changing the loft of the club. A-1 is the standard setting favoring a straight ball. B-2 is for a slight Draw and A-2 more Draw. B-1 is for Fade. Hope this helps you out. Search online for TSR setting it will show you the chart for Driver/Fairway and also a chart for Hybrids. Make sure you look at the Driver/Fairway chart.

    That should be A-3 more Draw, Not A-2
  9. SJacobs

    SJacobs

    I definitely appreciate the engagement. I don't have access to another shaft, but the Xtra Stiff should be guarding against the snap hook as I understand it. The shaft is 65G, but my past shaft was 60 and stiff. I have been convinced I can handle the extra stiff shaft, as that is what I have in my T100's. I also have oversized grips. I do know the adapter grid and that is why I had moved from B2 to A1 and now I am going to move to B1 and try it again tomorrow. Again, thanks for the replies and best of luck to all of you.
    Post Image
  10. Brock L

    Brock L
    Fort Myers, FL

    It might be important to consider lie angle and playing length, as that certainly affects start line. Titleist drivers are typically more upright of a lie angle (58.5 degrees) versus other manufacturers, so B2 will be 59.25 degrees. Shaft flex will compound incorrect lie and length. Pay attention to start line first, and then dial in launch, spin and shot shape. Low left, going left is certainly an indication of too upright, too little loft and/or too stiff of shaft.
  11. J22abe

    J22abe
    Honolulu

    TM clubs tend to be more closed faced and promote draw unless it's the Plus models geared towards tour. cally are very draw biased.

    Titleist tend to favor more open face at address. You could be just closing the face too much as you are used to seeing it that way at address.

    Maybe not, but maybe it's just that simple.

    But... take it for what it's worth from someone who is battling duck hooking my TSR4 constantly, and also developed a big hook with my irons... sigh
  12. Edward K

    Edward K
    Wesley Chapel, FL

    Military
    Any adjustments from Standard are only masking a minor flaw, according to a top fitter. A significant adjustment is masking a major flaw. It's all in your path/face at impact. The shaft doesn't hook or slice, your rotation and clubhead path do.

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